Wine Dressage

01Apr08

So it came to me on Tuesday night as I was chewing on a mouthful of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and trying to decide if I could call the tannins both “firm” and “drying”: the Diploma is to wine what dressage is to horseback riding – arcane, academic and interesting to an extremely small, and extremely passionate, group of people.

This point is not lost on Mary Ewing Mulligan, (from now on, MEM for short) who reminded us that we are “operating in some never-never land” at arm’s length from the average drinker’s experience. I appreciate the discipline and critical distance, of course – otherwise I wouldn’t be in the class – but it borders on the obsessive. At some point, can’t we just drink the wine and shut up about it?That being said, this week was one of our best lectures yet. Central Italy, particularly Tuscany, is clearly near and dear to MEM’s heart. This is a woman who has spent a lot of time in Chianti, and has a lot to say about it. I particularly liked the observation she shared about Brunello di Montalcino, which she picked up from a Tuscan wine merchant: with the best ones, you can feel the tannins consistently from start to finish as you taste the wine – not just at the back of the mouth. (I’m not sure how this works, physiologically, as I think the sensors for tannins are near the middle/back of your mouth, but I’ll take her word on it). Chianti and Sangiovese-based wines in general don’t rank among my top ten, or even top twenty, reds, but Mary’s enthusiasm and knowledge made me wonder if I need to re-evaluate my rankings.Unfortunately, the wines we tasted kinda sucked. The Verdicchio was either oxidized and/or over the hill. The Vino Nobile of the firm and drying tannins was a 2003 and had some unappealing overcooked fruit aromas going on. Ditto for the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo of the same year. We had a Brunello that Mary liked quite a bit – a 2001 La Fornace – and that I recognized as a good wine, but didn’t fall in love with. (Although Idid get the tannin from start-to-finish thing.) Which brings me to another tricky part of the class: leaving your subjectivity at home. If a Pinotage shows up in the tasting exam, I’ll have to put aside my intense dislike of the grape and assess it on its own terms. And vice-versa for Rioja, a wine that I might evaluate too generously because I like it so much.

My final discovery of the week is that my current study method, filling out mega Excel spreadsheets on every region, is worthless. I tried to use some of them to study for our first practice exam question, “Explain the diversity in Burgundy’s white wines, when there is only one key grape variety” and they’ve been incredibly unhelpful. Instead I’ve had to reread everything on white Burgundy in Jancis (we’re now on afirst name basis.)

I have to email my essay off by tomorrow to an anonymous grader in the UK who will then rip it apart and send it back with all kinds of merciless comments, or at least that’s what I’ve been told. If they’re anything like the exam graders, I’m in for a treat. As I wrote in my first post, WSET makes old exams available, along with comments from the examiners. Here’s one of my favorites:“This [tasting note] is a classic example of someone who is seriously underperforming in this examination. Whilst this candidate is clearly not English speaking, it was not their lack of fluency that was the problem (in tasting questions we are looking for accuracy rather than literary skills), it is their failure to use the Systematic Approach to Tasting. This has resulted in vague, imprecise tasting notes with limited potential for awarding marks.”Or how about this classic:“Questions on Eastern Europe are seldom popular, but quite often those who do attempt them do well because it is their area of expertise. Sadly this was not the case here with no candidates achieving distinction and only two with merit. This question clearly divided those who knew about these regions and those who knew a few basic facts about a couple of wines. In the case of the latter, many scripts covered barely half aside of A4 paper. This is seriously inadequate for this level of qualification.”I’m picturing the examiners as a combination between John Houseman in The Paper Chase and the panel of judges at the end of Flashdance.

What a feeling, indeed.

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2 Responses to “Wine Dressage”

  1. 1 wandamae lombardi

    Funny…I am an avid 3rd level dressage rider and also mid-way into the Advanced Level WSET and studying for it is intense! It is very much like Dressage…so intense and precise. Hmmm….in a way a dressage horse is like a wine…if it is not trained right as a youngster….it can be a problem as it matures….i love your analogy…thanks.

  2. 2 sashygirl

    Dressage and WSET — nice resume! Hope you’re having a good time with the Advanced Certificate.


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